Chances are you have worn a watch at various stages throughout your life. Over time, the band might wear down, the battery dies or the case fills with water so the watch no longer tells time.
With the luxury watch industry picking up speed over the past few decades, you might consider investing in a more expensive timepiece. One that can last through your lifetime and be durable enough to be passed down to future generations with proper maintenance.
Automatic watches deliver this craftsmanship, from how they keep time to the materials used, including stainless steel and more precious metals. It’s likely made in Switzerland, although other luxury watchmakers in the Netherlands and France deliver similar quality.
Rather than selecting based on price, there’s an art to shopping for an automatic watch. To better navigate your search, learn where and how to start.
Why Choose an Automatic Watch?
Particularly with Swiss craftsmanship, you will notice a sweeping motion among the hands. By contrast, quartz watches have a distinctive ticking motion and sound. Top manufacturers use this operation, including Breitling and Tag Heuer.
The rise of timekeeping in certain sports is also built into these watches. Although timekeeping methods in auto racing have since evolved, features like a chronograph and tachymeter remain. Beyond these basics, design is also influenced by such activities, from all-metal diving watches to the wider angled face of racing-originating timepieces.
What to Look For In an Automatic Watch
To get a better idea of the watch features you want, think about the following points.
Watch Type
Automatic watch designs are based on the following settings or active uses:
- Diving: Initially used by divers, these watches offer a degree of water resistance, have a luminous dial, unidirectional bezel, a larger face for clarity and all-metal construction.
- Dress: Geared toward formal occasions, a dress watch offers a minimalist, understated design intended to match your suit. The watch face is smaller and often features Roman numerals, while the strap is leather with gold or silver on the case.
- Racing: Also called a “driving” watch, this timepiece allowed racecar drivers to keep time at high speeds on the track. These tend to include a chronograph, tachymeter and a larger, contrast-heavy watch face designed for better visibility.
- Pilot: These watches coincided with aviation advances and what pilots needed to perform their jobs. As a result, they include multiple dials and other technical features.
Set a Budget and Goals
You’ll quickly find that automatic watch prices vary greatly depending on their construction, materials and brand association. Unless the sky is the limit for your finances, put a cap on what you intend to spend.
Cross-reference what you can afford now with your long-term goals. Do you intend to pass this down as an heirloom? If so, consider a timepiece from a well-known brand and schedule regular maintenance.
If you’re thinking about investing, be sure to purchase a case and safe to store your collection. Also follow market trends to see what may appreciate and net you a solid return with time.
Think About Features
Ask yourself what you need; does a watch that catches your eye include extra features you likely won’t use? Although automatic watches include their own specific features, common ones include:
- The chronograph, which basically functions as a stopwatch
- GMT, or a fourth hand that lets you keep track of another time zone
- Waterproof or water-resistant construction
Design
The typical automatic includes a 34mm to 44mm case diameter, although this may be larger for a diving watch or smaller for a dress style. Depending on the size of your wrist, a larger size may look and feel bulky, so consider trying on various timepieces in-store before you make a decision.
Additionally think about how thick of a profile it casts and how well it will fit under the cuff of your shirt. In this instance, 10mm thickness blends in better. Anything larger than 15mm tends to stand out.
Materials contribute to appearance and how much the watch costs. For the case, stainless steel is considered a baseline and materials like ceramic and titanium help lighten the weight. Gold, silver or platinum may also be used, all of which can add more weight and increase the price. Also factor in how quickly these metals show wear.
For the case, sapphire crystal is the domain of luxury timepieces. Lower-cost watches may use mineral crystal or glass. For the band, leather is standard for a dress watch. However, this material can be swapped out. With steel, look for a solid band or links and clasps.
Maintenance
Make sure your long-term budget includes maintenance for your automatic watch. Every three to five years, have the timepiece taken apart, cleaned and oiled, so it continues operating efficiently.
When looking for your first automatic watch, the jewelry experts at Hannoush Jewelers can help. Visit one of our Connecticut stores to learn more.
